Year in Review Part 3: The stats and goals

For the final of the yearly review series I want to look at what I made, did I achieve my goals and what do I want to achieve in 2019.

In total I made 39 garments and 26 lingerie items.  Lingerie includes bras/pants/slips/camis/nightwear.

This compares to 36 garments made in 2017.

Of those 39 garments:
2018                                2017
5 jumpers                        2 jeans
2 vests                             2 jackets
1 sweatshirt                     2 cardigans
1 cardigan                        16 tops
15 tops                             9 dresses
10 dresses                         4 : pants
4 pants                               1 skirt
1 skirt

And lingerie:

4 PJ sets

11 bras

8 pants

3 slips

All items were from Indie designers, the most used were:
Itch to Stitch  17 items
Jennifer Lauren Handmade 6 items
Love Notions 6 items
StyleArc 6 items
Cloth Habit 4 items
Sew Over It 4 items

Garments made multiple times were
Jennifer Lauren Handmade Nixie pants 5
Cloth Habit Watson bra 4
Itch to Stitch Visby top 4
Love Notions Laundry Day T  4
StyleArc Winnie Jumper 3
StyleArc Airlie pants 2
Itch To Stitch Anza dress 2
Sew Over It Heather dress 2
Sew Over It Vintage shirtdress 2
Chalk and Notch Fringe top 2
Itch to stitch Lago tank 2
Itch to stitch Vienna top 2
Itch to Stitch Uvita 2
Love Notions Oakley vest 2

total spent on fabric was $750.  $627 was spent on garments and $123 on lingerie.  However I haven't included the extras in this, such as bra clasps, special elastic, foam, etc.  This meant my average spend was $16.10for a garment and $4.60 per lingerie item.

Last year my total spend was $525 making an average of $14.50 per garment.

Interesting that this year I didn't make any jeans or jackets, even though all year I wanted to make some more jeans and a denim jacket.  At the time I just couldn't find any of the right sort of denim I wanted.  I really wanted the pale blue/washed look.  I have got some black denim in my stash so if I can't find any that I want then I will use that.

So what were my goals and did I achieve them.  Last year I wrote 

"Finish my daffodil quilt

I'd like another pair of jeans - in light denim

Another denim jacket - this time in light denim

Make leggings, and get more into tunic type tops that I can wear with leggings.

I really want to try bra making, reading lots of tutorials at the moment

Possibly an anorak - possible the Closet Case Kelly.  

So out of 6 items I only accomplished 2.  I finished my daffodil quilt and got into bra making and lingerie in general.  I did make a couple of tunics to wear with leggings with mixed results.

2019 goals

So for 2019  I still want to

• I'd like another pair of jeans - in light denim
• Another denim jacket - this time in light denim
• Make leggings, and get more into tunic type tops that I can wear with leggings.

• Possibly an anorak - possible the Closet Case Kelly.  

I have got black denim that I can make into jeans and a denim jacket if I can't find the light blue denim.  I'd still like to make some leggings. I now have the pattern and the fabric for the Closet Case Kelly anorak and it is in my sewing diary to make around March

In addition to still wanting to do last years goals, I want to:

• Make a winter coat.  I've bought some wool in the end of winter sales and the Style Arc Stella pattern.
• Make a rain coat.  I've seen some waterproof polyester on line and thinking of making Tessuti's Melbourne coat.
• Eliminate my stash.  I have 12 pieces of fabric in my stash and I want to use all of it.  I've made a list to use 2 pieces each month, so that should be gone by the end of June.  I've realised that having stash on hand is stressing me and limiting me.  It stresses me because I've got it, usually on sale, with the idea of making a specific garment with it, but as time goes on I no longer want to make that garment but want to make something else that I don't have the fabric for.  This means I'm limited as I can't make the garment I want to make as I need to use up what I already have.  With this plan to use 2 pieces a month I can get rid of my stash and at the same time buy fabric only as I need it to make the garment I really want to make at the time.

So I have 7 goals, lets see if I can achieve more than 2 next year.

Last finish of the year - Pauline Alice Bailen dress

I previously made this as a slip, but found it also made a great nightdress.  So using up fabric from the stash I made another one.

This is a quick sew and used up some fabric I've had for about 3 years and didn't know what to do with. Its a polyester so not great for daytime wear but should be fine for a nightdress.  Time to sew was only around 2 hours which included time for making my own bias binding.

Fringe Top

I had enough of the rayon/linen blend left over from the Southport dress to make a Chalk and Notch Fringe top.

This is the second Fringe top I've made.  In a rayon fabric it is a lovely smart/casual summer top.

Christmas gifts

Well the Christmas gifts are given out so here are some photos of things I made this year.

Art portfolios for the kids.

Notebook covers for friends

Knitting bags for the ladies in the family who are knitters.  filled with wool, row counters and point protectors

This was from a birthday gift earlier in the year, can't remember if I've shown it before.

 Teddy bear for the newest family member

Bags for the gents.  Filled with car wash supplies

Another cushion identical to the one I made for myself.  In the pocket was a box of chocolates and a magazine.

Year in Review part 2: 5 Sewing misses

I'm glad to say it is very hard to find 5 misses for this year.  Last years review helped me realise what I should not be making - colours/fabrics I won't feel comfortable wearing, making clothes I need in my wardrobe rather than I like that, I'll make it and  then never wear it.

This year the misses are:

This SewOverIt Heather Dress.  I love the dress, I love the ponte fabric.  However the fabric just hasn't stood up to washing and has pilled horribly.  It saw out the winter season, fast became suitable only for wearing around the house, and won't see another winter.   Plus having the dark side panels and the wide front panel just makes me look really hippy.  Next winter I'd like to make another one, but will probably make it all in one colour to avoid the hippy look.  And a fabric that hopefully doesn't pill




Next is the Itch to Stitch Sequoia cargo pants.


Again I love the pattern, love the drill fabric I made them in, love the pockets and the embroidery I did on them.  But I stuffed up.  I made a size 12.  I should have made size 10 waist and graded to 12 at hips.  The result was the waist was too big.   I thought as it had a ribbed  waistband  it would take care of my smaller waist.  Indeed I cut the ribbing at size 10.  No, that did not work, with the result the pants fall down.  I also really struggled getting snaps into the fabric.  The snaps at the waistband kept popping off.  Try as I might I could not get them to stay on.  So I decided to make a button closure.  However I somehow stuffed that up as well and got the buttonhole on the wrong side, so now they button up really weirdly.  So these just aren't comfortable to wear as they keep sliding down.

I want to make another pair next year, this time I'll grade down and replace snaps with buttons.

No 3 is StyleArc Airlie Pants.
Same story.  This time the pants have elastic in the waistband.  I'd had a recent weight gain so didn't want pants too tight so I made the elastic a little longer than usual.  Nope, should have kept it  the same.  These pants start falling down when I wear them.  I made them again and made the elastic my usual length and those ones fit perfectly.

NO 4 is the Colette Moneta dress. 
This is partly fabric choice but also partly the pattern.  Reviewers on PatternReview rave about this dress.  However for myself I'm not too keen on all the gathers in the skirt, for some reason it feels a bit 80's or too young for me.  Also the fabric I chose was a ponte and it is a bit too heavy.  I have however worn it on a couple of special occasions.  I had finished it the day before my mother passed, so wore it to her funeral, then a month later to my friends mothers funeral.  I won't be making this again.

No 5.  I really haven't got another.  Everything else I made is being worn and I'm happy.

The next review will be the stats, did I achieve my goals, and goals for 2019.

True Bias Southport

For summer I wanted a dress similar to my TNT Itch to Stitch Anza dresses but with a tank top style.  The True Bias Southport dress fit the bill and is a very popular make on Pattern Review.  I bought the pattern when it was on sale in the Black Friday sales.
The Southport dress is a tank style dress designed to be worn as a coverup at the beach or a dress for around town. It has a button opening at center front and a drawstring waist with inseam pockets. View A hits 20” from the waist. View B is maxi length and hits 42” from the waist and includes a center front slit.

  My version:

This is made from a linen/rayon from Backstreet Bargains.  I ordered it over the internet and it was a lot more sheer than I expected it to be.  I thought with it being linen it would be fairly heavy and I bought it with the intention of making a SewOverIt Vintage shirtdress.  However it was too lightweight and drapy for that.  I bought 3m x 147cm and have enough left over to make a Chalk & Notch Fringe top.

Alterations made to the pattern were:
Lengthen bodice by 2"
Lengthen skirt by 6"

Next time I want to
Lower bust dart apex 1"
Raise neck front and back 1"
Create facings for neck.

The pattern finishes the neck and armholes with bias binding.  I prefer the look of a faced neck.so next time will make facings.

I think the bodice could easily be lengthened to make a tank shirt.  I have some broderie anglaise that I can't decide what to make and that would be perfect for a summer tank.

Top 5 of 2018, or Year in Review Part 1

It's that time again, time to review achievements of 2018.

Without further ado, my top 5 hits for 2018 are:

1.  The Pippi pinafore by Jennifer Lauren Handmade.


This has been my most worn piece.  I made this in July and pretty much wore this non-stop around the house from the time I made it to November.  It got confined to the house because I wasn't terribly keen on the fabric.  It has wonderful deep pockets so I can carry my phone around with me.  I'd love to make it in a denim.  Also, I've tried it without having the bib up and it would be great made up as just a skirt.  While I've only made one so far more will be coming, either with or without the bib.

2.  Itch to Stitch Anza dress

 I made these 2 this year, and another at the end of 2017.  These were worn pretty much continuously throughout the summer and are back in wear again at the start of this summer.  I just feel so comfortable in these.

3.  Carolyn PJ's by Closet Case Patterns.


This is another pattern that has been worn continuously.  The wincyette were worn all winter and the cotton lawn have been worn from October to November.  However it is now a bit too warm for the top so I've reverted to a tank type top.  I have some more wincyette in the stash for another winter pair next year.

4. StyleArc's Winnie top

I love the funnel neck top and how quick this is to sew

5. Itch to Stitch Visby Henly top.

I like the option of the half placket or round neck.  Another quick sew if made without the placket.

I haven't included lingerie as I think that deserves a section of its own.  My lingerie making experience started this year and  I now wear me made bras almost exclusively.  I need to make some more pants so I can say the same about them.  Rather than top 5 makes these have become TNT patterns.  The bras have been quite heavily modified to suit my requirements, particularly the one I call the Craftsy Eva bralette - it doesn't have much in common now with the original pattern.

So my favourite lingerie TNT are

1.  Cloth Habit Watson bra - 4 made.  Only 3 are wearable.  The second one I made was with foam cups and was too small.  I went up a size for the next ones.
2. Craftsy Eva bralette - 5 made.  Only 4 are wearable.  The first one I made is too small.
3. Cloth Habit Watson pants - 2 made
4. Ohh Lulu Gracie pants - 1 made

Next in the series with be the big 5 fails of 2018

Another lingerie make

This is another of my modified Eva bralettes.

This is made from maroon lace with flesh coloured lycra underneath and with foam cups.

lingerie and machine embroidery

The Ohh Lulu Grace panties offer the option of using a mix of woven and knit fabrics, meaning those scraps of pretty wovens can be used.  I bought the pattern in their recent Black Friday sale.

The first pair I made were these.

The front and back were a polyester with a slight stretch from an op shop.  A friend gifted me the fabric.  The navy sides are remnants from a Visby Henly top.  The gusset is lined with cotton.  I made the recommended size for my measurements and the fit is perfect.  They are very comfortable to wear.

Also shown above is a boring white bra.  Just cause I need a boring plain white bra.  This was made using the Cloth Habit Watson bra pattern.  Fabric is left over from a long slip that I cut down into a camisole.  So the skirt part was used for the bra.

I made this Biscornu cushion, design from Sweetpea

I'm going to be getting a new lounge suite so I want some new cushions to brighten it up as it will be in a neutral colour.

Machine Embroidery

The last few days I've been on  a bit of a machine embroidery bender.

SweetPea have a monthly sew-along.  This months was a Santa window which I loved.  I decided to make it into a cushion

This was made with 4x4 blocks and is a 16" cushion.

Staying with Sweetpea, as in my previous post I've started the Block of the Month, which runs over 10 months.  This is my first block, made up of 4 blocks actually, made in the 7x7 size.

And just for the cuteness factor.  The joy of a cats life

StyleArc Martha shirt

When StyleArc released their Martha shirt a few months ago I was intrigued by the pattern seaming at the back.


Their website describes it as: "Designer shirt featuring a swing back, extended shoulder and a neat shirt collar"

I knew I had to make it in a classic white poplin/cotton.

The pattern is rated medium/challenging. I assume this rating is due to the collar and collar stand as it was really very simple to sew.  If you've done a collar and collar stand before then that isn't difficult.  The sleeves are cut on, so no sleeves to sew in. The button placket is folded over, so no facings to add in.

The shirt is everything I hoped it would be.  It took me around 4 hours to sew it and used 1.5m x 148cm of cotton poplin from Spotlight,which just cost me $7.19

Black Friday shopping

I have a board on Pinterest of dressmaking patterns and embroidery designs I'm wanting to buy  Some on the board are really, really want and others are I like these, maybe.  With the Black Friday sales I managed to cross off my really, really want items and also get some of the maybe.

Dressmaking patterns I bought were:
Closet Case patterns, Kelly anorak and lining expansion pack.

I wanted this pattern so badly, I already had the fabric, lining and snaps to make it.
The fabric is Cavalier Gabardine in charcoal,  this fabric feels and looks beautiful.  It is from Spotlight.


Lining is viscose tartan from Backstreet Bargains


Next up in the really, really want, is the Stella coat from StyleArc
Again, I already had the fabric.  This is a beautiful textured wool in a pale grey with a slight lavender hue. From Morelands fabrics

Next up is the Itch to Stitch Danube denim skirt. 
 This wasn't actually on my pinterest board.  However one day last week I was trying to decide what to wear and really wanted a denim skirt and don't have one.  I do already have some pinstriped denim that I could use, though I may use this for the next pattern I bought. This denim is non-stretch and from Backstreet Bargains.

So that denim could be used on the Danube skirt, or my next pattern buy, another StyleArc the Jodie pinafore.

The next dressmaking pattern was True Bias Southport dress.  This dress is very popular on Pattern Review.  I wanted something similar to the Anza dress but a bit more summery.  This can be made as regular length or maxi.

I could use this rayon/linen blend from Backstreet Bargains

I also bought a pants pattern from Ohhh Lulu, the Grace hipster.

Even though I have TNT pants patterns they need to be made from stretch fabrics.  I wanted these pants as they use a combination of woven and stretch fabrics.  This will allow me to use pretty scraps in the pants.

So in total I bought 6 new patterns.  Probably only one, the Danube skirt, was an impulse buy, but then I had already identified the need in my wardrobe.

Spotlight didn't have a Black Friday sale, however I did get 2 $40 off vouchers when you spend more than $100 in store.  So I visited twice and spent just over $100 each time and got
First buy
box of 42 gutermann 100m threads and a 24" quilting ruler.
Second buy
box of 42 gutermann 100m threads and 14 Flat Fats

The Gutermann threads were already reduced from $90 to $60.  With the discount it means I got 84 threads for around $72, less than a dollar each.  Having the 2 of each colour will be very convenient when using my coverseam machine.  The Flat Fats worked out around 14 for around $24, so less than $2 each.

Previously, at the quilt show I visited at the beginning of November I had bought some 1m lengths of fabric that were on special.

I have a very healthy stash, however most of my colours are very dark/bright or patterned.  I don't have very many in muted colours/patterns.  

So what do I want  to make with these?  Well there are a couple of patterns from SweetPea, who sadly didn't have Black Friday sales.  So, to the patterns.  They are running a 10 month mystery block of the month.  I really like the first block so decided to take part.

I want a new lounge suites, so what a great opportunity to make new cushions.  I really like Sweet Peas biscornu cushion, so the 1m lengths are to make 4 biscornu cushions.

And there was one big, non-sewing Black Friday purchase.  This will be my Xmas present to myself.

The Breville Barista Express espresso machine.  This was over $500 off the usual price. There is a coffee roasters just 10 minutes from home so I got some freshly roasted coffee.  This machine is brilliant, just like cafe coffee.  In fact, I usually get mochas from cafes because sometimes coffee can be a bit bitter, but with this machine I'm happy to drink just coffee.  It took a bit of adjusting to get it correct, but now I am so happy with this.

So I had a very happy Black Friday.  I haven't checked my bank account since, too scared!!